![]() ![]() That water is required to have a weep screed installed which directs the water out from behind the stucco and out from within the wall. See, stucco *is not water proof*, I would not even want to call it 'water-resistant' as water goes through stucco, the water goes through the stucco, goes through the bond breaker paper, then weeps down the back side of the bond breaker paper between it and the house wrap on the wall behind the bond breaker paper. By the way, the MINIMUM thickness for standard 3-coat stucco on frame is 7/8", not 3/4". Then the brown coat (the 2nd coat), then the finish coat (the 3rd coat). The stucco is scratched in and pressed against the paper described in this paragraph, and this paper simply serves as a bond breaker so the stucco does not bond to the house wrap which was installed first. The stucco is 'scratched' (forced into the openings in the expanded metal lat) and that stucco which goes through the openings create 'globs' or 'keys' behind the metal lath are hold the stucco to the metal lath. The paper on the paper backed metal lath (or the 15# or 30# described immediately above) serve as the bond breaker between the stucco and the drainage plane. and only then, do you install the 15# or 30# felt and metal lath, or paper backed metal lath. The drainage plane could be house wrap, Tyvek makes a special house wrap for use behind stucco, it has 'dimples' (for lack of a better term) in it and the rows of dimples are intended to be installed vertically (when the Tyvek is installed horizontally around the house), and those dimples create a drainage plane. That drainage plane could be 30# felt (although that is not necessarily the best material to use as a drainage plane as it soaks up moisture). Stucco on wood frame needs a drainage plane. I-M-P-O-R-T-A-N-T step: namely the drainage plane. It isn't supposed to be a moisture weep system.So you are the one responsible for all those rotted out walls behind stucco lath installed without a drainage plane? I always wondered who the culprit was. When the stucco is applied over the lath the scratch coat goes into the holes of the lath. It is a hard coat system that could not weep moisture. Still won't be fun, but at least you won't kill yourself trying to get the pieces up.Stucco is applied using black paper, lath, scratch coat, basecoat and than finish. What I recommend is to cut the drywall into smaller more manageable pieces. 5 minute mud is almost impossible to use, there's very little time to get it mixed and on the wall before it fires off, which means you've got to be proficient at how to mix and apply it or it will set in your pan before you even get to the surface of the drywall.Īny overhead work sucks, especially if you're lifting rock over your head by yourself. ![]() ![]() 20 minute and up isn't so bad to work with, but still needs familiarity. I would caution you away from quick setting mud unless you are VERY familiar in how to use it. Been putting that off for months and months cause I hate ceilings and it's a 5/8" drywall patch that will involving routing out a hole around a can light. I have a patch to repair on the ceiling of the bathroom yet. I'm not totally sure how much the ratios should be? I'm thinking I should use it with quickset mud. ![]()
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